By R. J. B. Bosworth
During this dependent ebook Richard Bosworth explores Venice—not the fantastic Venice of the Venetian Republic, yet from the autumn of the Republic in 1797 and the Risorgimento up during the modern. Bosworth seems on the glamour and squalor of the belle époque and the darkish underbelly of modernization, the 2 international wars, and the far-reaching oppressions of the fascist regime, via to the “Disneylandification” of Venice and the vacationer growth, the global consciousness of the biennale and picture competition, and present threats of subsidence and flooding posed by means of international warming. He attracts out significant themes—the more and more anachronistic yet deeply embedded Catholic Church, the 2 faces of modernization, consumerism as opposed to culture.
Bosworth interrogates not only Venice’s background yet its meanings, and the way the city’s previous has been co-opted to fit current and occasionally ulterior goals. Venice, he exhibits, is a urban the place its histories in addition to its waters ripple at the floor.
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All vintages 42 THE GUIDE of this wine show a blend of power, ripe black fruit, the right touch of spice, a pleasant minerality, and sweet, well-polymerized if at times chewy tannins, and older vintages are even better than recent ones, at times too strongly marked by black pepper and herbal notes. Nonetheless, assertive acids and ﬁne-grained tannins confer great clarity and cut, and the sweet, complex ﬁnish goes on and on. 4 million; Total ha: 302; Tasting room: yes; Visit: by appointment; Highway exit: Mazara del Vallo (A29) or Marsala (A29/dir) OTHER GREAT WINES UNDER $100 BY DONNAFUGATA: “Lighea” (zibibbo, inzolia, cataratto—unoaked white), “Polena” (viognier—white), “Sedara” (nero d’Avola—unoaked red), Moscato di Pantelleria “Kabir” (sweet white), Passito di Pantelleria “Ben Ryé” (sweet white).
The site is at the southern tip of the Serralunga zone, between Arione and Falletto, two other of the better vineyard sites in the area. The wine has a medium deep brilliant ruby hue; great depth of red cherry, raspberry liqueur, and strawberry jam aromas with hints of dark chocolate and licorice; on the palate, more of the telltale Serralunga licorice element and gobs of ripe fruit, chocolate, and spicy plum ﬂavors with a long, tannic, high-acid ﬁnish. Its trump card is a truly rare ability to magically combine uncommon reﬁnement, ripeness of fruit, and huge structure in a balanced whole.
The “Cirsium” is a unique Cesanese, harvested late and then air-dried, made much in the manner of Amarone: you’ll ﬁnd the same fragrances and ﬂavors of almost sweet ripe red cherry fruit and the high alcohol levels. The tannins, however, are a lot less brutal than those of Amarone, and the wine is easier to drink, with a lovely ultra-velvety mouthfeel. Cesanese is not considered a long-lived wine, but the truth is that not enough high-quality wines have been made, so the jury is still out. “Cirsium” is so enjoyable right upon release that aging it might well be an academic issue—I doubt that many people would want to defer gratiﬁcation by cellaring it for any length of time.